Architecture Travel Abroad Program

Architecture field trip

An Architecture travel abroad program (i.e., field trips), historically coined the Grand Tour, were established in the 17th century and tailored to British aristocrats in pursuit of refining their liberal arts education through a visit to continental Europe. For students tutored under a mentor, favored destinations such as Italy and Greece introduced the Classical world of antiquity to those who were expected to be leaders of their country, especially in that time of the beginning of “greater political or economic cooperation among states and nations.”

Image 1: miniature metal building collection (author’s collection)

Generations of young men (at that time it was always men) took part in this British ritual, which in the 18thcentury extended to Europeans, in this era when architects were becoming trained in a more formal academic setting—such as the Ecole des Beaux-Arts and the Ecole Polytechnique compared to medieval guild traditions.

These architectural students saw immediate benefits to visiting historic precedence within the metropolises of Antiquity such as Rome, Pompei, Herculaneum, and Athens. The expansion of intellectual and visual horizons was often accompanied by the prestigious award of the Prix de Rome, which was created to host in Rome students of the arts including sculptors as well as scholars. From 1720 this included architects.

Grand Tour and the Prix de Rome

Far too many well-known architects took part in the Grand Tour to name, some at times, were also awarded the Prix de Rome. Three who showcase the Grand Tour for me, are Henri Labrouste (1801-1875), Louis I. Kahn (1901-1074), and Le Corbusier (1887-1955). The latter being an icon of the 20th century whose travel carnets entitled Le Voyage d’Orient (his Europe Travel Abroad Program),were only published in 1965, fifty-one years after his 1911 trip. Le Corbusier’s six-month journey led him from Dresden to the edge of Asia (Istanbul), returning through Greece and Italy to his native Switzerland. The countless sketches by all three of the aforementioned architects showcase in their studious hand and mind an ability to conceptualize the essence of what they had observed; soaking up the past to build their own vision for a modern architecture and urbanism.

Pedagogical strategy

This tradition carries on today in most architecture programs throughout the world, and at the institution where I currently teach, one of our signature programsEurope Travel Abroad Program—has been reinstated after a hiatus due to the Covid-19 pandemic. This past September, I was thrilled to share leadership with a colleague on a two-week segment of our own Grand Tour. The below travel description, itinerary, and photo reportage traces our journey with the group of talented architecture students.

Following a first segment of travel through Northern Europe led by other colleagues and a week of personal travel and research for the students, our proposal—which unfolded almost as initially conceived with the necessary hiccups (misplaced wallet and sketch books, and the sad loss of a wallet)—intended to provide a balanced approach between key architecture figures that nurtured and referenced each other in time, with seminal buildings, landscapes, cities, museums, culture and art; all part of the sine qua non of any integrative education for architecture students. 

Between personal affinities favored by us as faculty, and the importance of site visits to architecture wonders—content and buildings most often introduced in history and theory courses—we believed that an enriched travel opportunity would secure for students a new appreciation of the many wonders that constitute the discipline both historically AND as a new métier of an architecture of the 21st century.

Extra curricular visits…

Finally, for an authentic cultural experience to truly take place during such the short period of our two week journey, instances for autobiographical and small group discoveries were built into the students’ daily schedule, moments when they could learn from sipping a hot chocolate at Café Florian located in Venice’s Piazza San Marco (the drawing room of Europe according to Napoleon), take a much anticipated gondola ride between narrow canals, or get happily lost in the maze of narrow streets of the Serenissima. Stepping into yet another culture they partook in a traditional yet extraordinarily expensive meal at a Zurich McDonald’s, shopped early morning for unnecessary items at the famous flee market at Vienna’s Nashmarkt, dressed up for a night of classical music and a memorable Opera performance.

Later they dropped in unannounced on Graz’s annual festivity (pleading to stay longer). Of course, there was also banal snacking, regrouping of one’s thoughts, reviewing the day’s sketches, and the while enjoying a nap on a coach bus between cities and scheduled events, or sleeping on the night train between Zurich and Prague. Living out of suitcases during any Europe Travel Abroad Program is not easy, but I am certain that each experience will remain memorable at all levels. It was for me and my faculty colleague.

Taking a look back, this is what was originally proposed: 

1. Proposal

Introduction

Margarita McGrath and Henri T. de Hahn, architecture professors at the School of Architecture + Design (A+D), will be joining the 2022 Fall Travel Program during the second travel segment, by offering students a particular insight into the culture of four countries/regions/cities—Switzerland, Prague, Brno, Vienna, Ljubljana, and Northern Italy and their ensuing architectural production.

Program description

Modern as well as contemporary European architecture remains without reservation a model for an integrative practice of architecture spanning from early design schematics to completed built work. The resulting landmark and architectural artifacts often forcefully and unabashedly exhibit their presence by being contemporary, yet mostly balancing any ‘wow’ factor with more humble testimonies that subtly integrate each intervention within a historic fabric and a deeply rooted architectural history and theory.

This attitude to ground a project has, over decades—and in fact since the Grand Tour—shown architects’ great dexterity in handling complex urban spaces, interstitial spaces, and concerns about historic preservation, in particular within the historic fabric of European city centers.

The proposed itinerary is tailored to build/prepare on the previous first segment—and in preparation to the third segment—of the 2022 Europe Study Abroad Travel Program, by focusing on a number of key historical, modern and contemporary architects among many other ‘anonymous’ architects whose production remain remarkably noteworthy and important to visit first hand.

A need to contextualize

While students may at this time be familiar with many of the architects—through their academic tenure at A+D—the faculty of record are interested in contextualizing each visit while bringing previous experiences to bear on the production of new knowledge as students develop attitudes about form making, construction, structure, technology, siting, urban and landscape planning; all topics which will lead to the development of a personal language that will culminate during the students’ upcoming thesis year.

The intended visits allow for a comparative discourse between architectural movements, religious, institutional, civic, real estate developments, private and social housing interventions, within both urban and rural contexts. Noteworthy, a number of impromptu and scheduled discussions regarding the understanding of each city will be held, as the urban European morphology remains integral in how building types are generated.

Discussions will pay particular attention to deeply interrelated connections between cities and places, architects and artistic movements, culinary culture and social aspirations. It is the faculty’s ambitions to introduce foreign cultures and to contextualize spaces and places that students have visited, or will look forward to visit during the semester. 

2. Itinerary

Image 2: Itinerary (author’s collection)

Day by day detailed travel itinerary

3. Photo reportage by author

Image 3: select site visit images (author’s collection)

Zurich: David Chipperfield (Kunstmuseum), Chris & Gantenbein Architects (Swiss National Museum), Santiago Calatrava (University Law Library), (Stadelhofen Railway Station), Le Corbusier (Heidi Weber Pavilion)
Night train Zurich-Prague: (single couchette compartment)
Prague: Jože Plečnik (Prague Castle), (Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord), John Hejduk (Jan Palach Memorial), Frank O. Gehry (Fred and Ginger)
Brno: Mies van der Rohe (Villa Tugendhat)
Vienna: Adolf Loos (Knize, Mainz, Loos Haus): Hans Hollein (Schullin 1 , Schullin 2, Uhren Museum, Haas Haus), Jože Plečnik (Zacher Haus), Otto Wagner, Jeweler Store, Urban Kiosk, Cafe Demel, Cafe Museum
Graz: Vito Acconci (Murinsel), Zaha Hadid (Argos Building), Colin Fournier and Sir Peter Cook (Kunsthaus), Meteorological Pavilion, Street Facades
Ljubljana: Jože Plečnik (National and University Library), (City artifacts by Plecnik)
San Vito D’Altivole: Carlo Scarpa (Brion Vega Cemetery)
Venice: Carlo Scarpa (Giardini entrance pavilion), (Biennale Venezuela Pavilion), (Querini Stampalia), (Olivetti Showroom), (IAUV Entrance), (San Vito d’Altivole), David Chipperfield (St Michele Cemetery), Bridge
Possagno: Carlo Scarpa (Gypsotheca)
Verona: Carlo Scarpa (Castelvecchio), (Banca Popolare di Verona)
Vicenza: Andrea Palladio (Vicenza)
Milan: Rem Koolhaas (Prada Foundation), Aldo Rossi (Monument to Sandro Pertini), Giuseppe Terragni (Casa Lavazzari, Casa Rustici), Street Facades, Milano Centrale Train Station, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Como: Giuseppe Terragni (Asilo Sant’Elia, Casa Del Fascio, Casa Giulini-Frigerio)

Blogs of interest related to the above and other site visits

Vienna: a lesson in stairs (Jože Plečnik), Part 6/2
Vienna: a lesson in stairs (Jože Plečnik), Part 6/1
Carlo Scarpa Gavina Showroom in Bologna. Part 2
Carlo Scarpa Gavina Showroom in Bologna. Part 1
Carlo Scarpa and detailing
Carlo Scarpa Gypsoteca in Possagno, Italy
Chipperfield’s Kunsthaus in Zurich
Overnight train

3 thoughts on “Architecture Travel Abroad Program

  1. What a great tour — so many great lessons to learn from — exemplars of both successful and failed attempts at excellence, but all working toward and architecture of SOMETHING.

    One thing confounds me a bit…you took the time to visit Chipperfield’s hommage to early Rossi cum Italian Fascism, and schlepped to Possagno to Scarpa’s great addition to the Gipsoteca, but not to San Vito di Altivole (just restored) or to Palladio’s Villa Maser, both easier to get to by bus than Chipperfield is by vaporetto? I’m sure you had your reasons. So little time…so much architecture.

  2. J’ai assez bien connu Scarpa déjeune avec lui au Florian où il était redouté (en 65/66 le Florian était accessible seulement aux Vénitiens et leurs amis no touristes ou inconnus) visité aussi sa maison de campagne (elle a brûlé l ‘année suivante je crois) où il était si agreable et passionné j’étais avec Afra et Tobia son fils
    Both designers

  3. Dear Georges,
    WE DID visit San Vito d’Altivole and the images included in the blog were taken a couple of weeks ago. The Villa Maser will need to be left for another time. And the cemetery, OMG, what a disappointment as much as Chipperfield’s intervention in Zurich. I forgot to include the proposal that we submitted. I am uploading it shortly and hope we can chat soon. Thanks and always appreciate your candid observations. Off to Kentucky for a review this upcoming Thursday and Friday. Henri

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *